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What is it like to be an Indian diplomat in Pyongyang embassy, North Korea?
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Swaroop Krishnan S, works at Vagabond
Updated Oct 15, 2016
What is it like to be an Indian diplomat in Pyongyang embassy, North Korea?
Before answering this I must confess that I have only bookish knowledge about this matter. While I am yet to read the experiences of Indian diplomats, I will try to venture explaining what I understood from the write ups of some foreign diplomats and extrapolate it to the case of Indians.
India-North Korea Relations
There are very less number of Indian expats in North Korea. Whenever they have a problem, Indian embassy will have to intervene. Same goes for the Indian tourists too, if any. So knowing the right people in the country is important for the diplomat.
Indian Embassy in Pyongyang
People from North Korea are not allowed to travel much outside. So the quantity of Visa approvals will be very low or even non existent. So one can safely assume that such duties will be minimal there, when compared to other embassies.
Indian embassy in North Korea has a defence attache present there. There is a high chance that he will be interested in keeping the security of the consular staff up to the mark. He also may be invited as an observer in the military operations or exercises of North Korea. This is a kind of legalized spying. North Korea will show him what they want India to know about their military. This post will increase interactions between the two defense forces. This will facilitate the reduction of tensions and end up building better relations. Whether it is happening between North Korea and India, one can only guess.
North Korea is a totally closed state. Much of details about its leaders and how things get done there, are unknown to outside world. So Indian diplomats can also be tasked to conduct some level of espionage for their country. In a high surveillance state like DPRK, such an activity will be very dangerous. Deportation will be the easiest way out compared to North Korean jails. Indian diplomats will have a very thin safety net there, as compared to other nations they have worked.
Typical DPRK Propaganda Family
Unlike in other nations, Indian diplomats in DPRK, are not going to have much interactions with the locals. Most of the people they meet will be the ones working with them. If anyone tries to bridge this cultural gap by getting to know the locals he/she will be presented with many bureaucratic hurdles and distrust. The movement restrictions also will prevent average citizens from entering the diplomat’s district of residence (Diplomatic Quarters). Even the relations with the North Korean co-workers are expectedly stiff. Indian diplomats cannot expect their Korean colleagues to join them for a social gathering after work.
North Korean Guards
The foreign diplomats are never alone in North Korea. The residential areas of the diplomats have armed soldiers outside their gate. These guards register when they arrive or leave home. They also note who might be accompanying the diplomats. These soldiers occasionally make phone calls to report the details. So even if they invite a Korean for a dinner at home, he/she would need a special permission from the Foreign Ministry even to set foot in their living quarters. When they want to travel outside Pyongyang for some official duties, interpreters and drivers will follow them to ensure that they are not “getting lost”.
Footpath Through the Diplomatic Quarter in Pyongyang
Most of the diplomats are not allowed to see the parts of Pyongyang which are suffering and impoverished. But still all of them have a good idea about these things.
Main Road Pyongyang Diplomatic Quarter
There is lack of electricity in the city during nights. Most of the city will be in pitch dark. Only lights seen, comes from dim lamps on the wires of Pyongyang’s trolleybuses. It is common to see scores of young men hanging around those lights reading books or doing homeworks. Lately in some places some solar panels are seen.
Dark Area...(more)
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Diplomats have frequent power outages in their residential areas also. As time pass by, it becomes an habit for them to carry a flashlight wherever they go out at night. Even when there is electricity, things are not so dandy. The quality of the power is very bad at 130 watts. This makes it useless to operate a computer, TV or a Music system with a couple of speakers. Even the light bulbs will be dim. It will take 2 hours to get the oven heat up to 200 degrees and 1 hour to boil a kettle of water. But this is nothing when compared to the lack of running water at their apartment, forcing them to take bath at the embassy most of the days.
Hotel in Pyongyang Shop
There are also some 10 odd restaurants in the area which will accept Euros and USD[1]. These will be the best places for a diplomat to have food. Most of these restaurants are maintained well, with very good services. But our diplomats have to be careful to avoid some delicacies involving dog meat, if they are not very adventurous.
Hotels for Foreigners in Pyongyang
The Convenience Store for Diplomats and Foreigners
Foreign diplomats have special convenience stores. Here they can get items foreign to DPRK. They can pay here using Euro and USD. Chances of Indian Rupee accepted there is less. Even though frozen meat items are available there, diplomats will be wise to avoid it as it may be stale due to constant power outages. Eggs can be a better source of protein for them. Local currency is used very less in the areas diplomats are allowed to travel.
North Korean Won
There are rules in North Korea which makes it illegal for foreigners to handle North Korean won. So best bet for the diplomat is to carry Euro, USD or Chinese renminbi.
Outside Pyongyang City
Winters in North Korea are really harsh. Without proper heating due to lack of power, the conditions in their apartment will become even worse.
Extra Wide Roads of DPRK
Still, lonely long bicycle rides, on the extra wide highways of Pyongyang without any cars in sight, will be a different experience for Indians .
Pyongyang Airport on a Working Day
There is no direct air connection between India and DPRK. One can travel via Hong Kong or by a direct flight to Beijing. Air Koryo operates flights from Beijing thrice a week on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. Air China operates two flights in a week on Monday and Tuesday during summer between March and October. Train service between Beijing to Pyongyang is four times a week (Monday/Wednesday Korean train and Friday/Saturday Chinese train). Thus unlike in other countries, our diplomats will find it difficult to travel back to India in case of an emergency at home.
Pyongyang Foreigner's School
There is a school in Pyongyang for the children of foreigners. English is the medium of instruction there. Now there are reports that the standard of this institution has improved. But still the heavy dosage of propaganda for their children, at such an young age will not be acceptable for our diplomats. This forces them to leave their family back home and come to North Korea to complete their assignment.
So overall, most of the diplomats are expected to have their daily lives in North Korea ridden with inconveniences, frustrations and loneliness. Still they do it, in service of our great nation.
Want to read more :
The daily life of a Swedish diplomat in North Korea
India’s North Korea envoy: experience preferred, but not essential
North Korea's Foreign Minister Makes Rare Visit to India
Want to see more pictures from North Korea :
100 Photos Inside North Korea - Part 1 - Earth Nutshell
100 Photos Inside North Korea - Part 2 - Earth Nutshell
Pyongyang diplomatic quarter
Life in North Korea: What is it like to live in North Korea?
A Rare Look Inside North Korea - Photo Essays
Footnotes
[1] The 10 Best Pyongyang Restaurants - TripAdvisor
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